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DSL Plastering

Damp proofing that starts with the cause.

Anyone can inject a wall. The difficult part, and the part that decides whether the damp comes back, is working out what is actually putting water into it. We look for that first, and we will tell you if the answer is cheaper than you feared.

A bare wall with damaged plaster and a broken floor below it

Know what you have

Three problems that look alike and need different fixes.

Treating the wrong one is the most expensive mistake in this trade. Here is how they tell themselves apart.

Rising damp

How it shows

A tide mark low down the wall, often under a metre, sometimes with a white salt bloom and blown plaster.

What causes it

A damp proof course that has failed, been bridged by raised ground or a flowerbed, or was never there at all.

Penetrating damp

How it shows

A patch that darkens after heavy rain and dries back between spells. Usually higher up, and often in the same spot every time.

What causes it

Water getting in from outside: a blocked or split gutter, cracked render, failed pointing, a slipped slate, or a bridged cavity.

Condensation

How it shows

Black spotted mould in corners, behind furniture, on cold external walls and around window reveals. Worse in winter.

What causes it

Moist air with nowhere to go. Cold surfaces, too little ventilation, and often a house that was sealed up for insulation without anyone adding airflow back.

How we work

Cause first. Always.

Injecting a wall that did not need injecting is expensive, disruptive and does nothing. We would rather spend an hour outside with a ladder than sell you a treatment you do not need.

  1. 01

    Find the actual cause

    We look outside before we look inside. Ground levels, gutters, pointing, render, airbricks. A great many damp problems are a twenty pound gutter bracket, not a treatment.

  2. 02

    Tell you what it is

    In plain terms, with what we found and what it will take. If the fix is smaller and cheaper than you were braced for, that is what you will hear.

  3. 03

    Treat it properly

    Chemical DPC injection, a cavity drain membrane system, or a breathable coating where the wall needs to stay open. Which one depends entirely on what step one turned up.

  4. 04

    Replaster and make good

    Treated walls need a salt-resistant, correctly specified replaster. Skip that and residual salts pull moisture back through and stain straight through your new paint within a year.

Services

Everything from diagnosis to the finished wall.

One firm doing the treatment and the replastering means there is nobody to blame if the finish fails. That is deliberate.

  • Diagnosis of rising, penetrating and condensation damp
  • Chemical damp proof course injection
  • Cavity drain and membrane systems
  • Breathable coatings for solid walls
  • Salt-resistant replastering
  • Full making good after treatment

On older solid-walled property the answer is often not a membrane at all, but taking off whatever sealed the wall in the first place and letting it breathe again. See our heritage and lime work for how that is done.

Common questions

What people ask about damp.

How do I know which sort of damp I have?
Rising damp shows as a tide mark low down the wall, often with salt deposits. Penetrating damp appears as a patch that worsens after rain, usually traced to a failed gutter, cracked render or a bridged cavity. Condensation shows as black mould in corners, on cold walls and around windows. The three need completely different fixes, which is why we diagnose before quoting.
Do I definitely need a chemical damp proof course?
Often not. A great many damp problems turn out to be a blocked gutter, ground level built up above the damp proof course, or a ventilation issue. Injecting a wall that did not need it is expensive and pointless. We look for the cause first and will tell you if the answer is cheaper than you feared.
Can you replaster after the damp work?
Yes, and it matters. Treated walls need a salt-resistant, correctly specified replaster, otherwise residual salts pull moisture back to the surface and stain straight through your new paint. We do the treatment and the finish, so there is one firm responsible for the result.
How long does damp treatment take?
The treatment itself is usually a matter of days. The wall then needs to dry out, which takes considerably longer and depends on how wet it was and how thick it is. We will give you a realistic timeline at quote stage rather than an optimistic one.

Got a damp patch that keeps coming back?

Send us a photo and roughly where it is on the wall, or ring and describe it. We will tell you what it sounds like and come and confirm it properly.

Call 07554 310409